Greetings from Fond-des-Negres, Haiti!
After two lovely nights at the Visa Lodge in Port-au-Prince, Jen and I packed up our bags and headed to Fond-des-Negres with Majors Robert and Rae Doliber! We left around ~9:30 AM and started our 2.50 hour drive out into the countryside.
Given that we spent a significant amount of our morning in the car, I felt it would be appropriate to comment on the roads and/or driving conditions in Haiti, as they are pretty different from our own. Specifically, in terms of the Rules of the Road, it truly appears as though the phrase "Anything Goes" is the only rule to follow. In driving around Haiti, you will see your fair share of unorthodox things, including the following:
(1) Motorcycles everywhere, populating the roads like mosquitoes at dusk, with riders who rarely wear helmets and who often exceed the passenger limit (allowing 3 passengers on average).
(2) Tap-Taps (taxis) painted in beautiful, bright colors with elaborate designs and portraits (sometimes of Jesus, God, or Celine Dion), which are surrounded by phrases or themes pertaining to salvation. (Side Note: We learned the Tap Taps were decorated in this way, as the drivers thought the religious-elements of their vehicle would bring them good luck, fortune, and safety while on the road...Even though this might explain the paintings of Jesus, God, or the incorporation of scripture, I am still baffled by the reference to Celine Dion).
(3) Functional stoplights that often go unnoticed. (Side Note: Apparently, a group of NGOs tried to improve the safety of several major intersections within Port-au-Prince by installing the stoplights. Unfortunately, Haitians never learned the meaning of stoplights, as they were not incorporated into their version of "Driver's Ed." Although the intention was good, this is sadly yet another example where the execution was poor and yielded little actual benefit.)
(4) Old school buses or trucks from the U.S. that have been converted into Tap-Taps, in order to maximize the number of passengers each driver could accommodate within one trip.
(5) Tap-Taps that are "top-heavy," overflowing with luggage that the roof-racks were simply not built to withstand. Moreover, sometimes the "luggage" includes passengers. These bold individuals will sit on top of the mounds of luggage (no seat-belts, no straps); this occurs even when traveling on major highways where the speed reaches upwards of 70mph.
(6) An overwhelming number of pedestrians in the street or alongside the street participating in markets who are just one misstep away from the vehicles as they race past, creating a dust storm of dirt in their wake.
(7) Honking! Good lord, the honking! Haha, I realize this is a sound and not a sight; however, it has to be documented. Haitians driving at high speeds through the streets will honk at all hours of the day regardless if someone else is present on the road. I have never seen such a fascination with honking, as that which is present here in Haiti.
(8) License plates from other countries including, the United States and Canada for cars that had been donated and/or disposed of here in Haiti and where the owners of the vehicles chose not to pay the registration fee or update the license plate. (Unfortunately, this happens more often than you might initially think.)
Wow, after writing this post I am reconsidering my chosen profession... Perhaps I would have been better suited as a traffic cop? Haha, who knew I had so many opinions regarding the rules of the road. Although...all of these points do relate to public health, right? Haha, maybe there lies my answer.
Alright, well that is it for tonight! I will be sure to update you about our first day volunteering at the Bethel Hospital tomorrow!
Best,
M
Monday, December 29, 2014
Sunday, December 28, 2014
Saturday, December 27, 2014: Exploring Haiti
Greetings from Port-au-Prince, Haiti!
Jen and I arrived in the country (on a plane packed with several other American and Haitian travelers) on Friday, December 26, 2014. Considering it was the day after the Christmas holiday, we had a relatively easy time leaving O'Hare and heading southeast to Fort Lauderdale. Once in Florida, we grabbed a quick bite to eat at Villa Italia and patiently began waiting for our flight to Port-au-Prince, Haiti. In just a short while, we were boarded with our seat-belts fastened and waited for wheels up!
In just over ~2 hours, we arrived at our final destination! Upon landing in Port-au-Prince, we were quickly swept into the customs line. It was an interesting mixture of people entering the country; you could tell there were several first-time international travelers among us. Thankfully, customs was a breeze for both Jen and myself. I walked up to the podium and was asked, "Is this your first time visiting Haiti?" I responded, "Oui." To that the customs agent asked me if I spoke Creole, I admitted that I did not, but that I did speak a little bit of French. I feel as though she was encouraged by that, and tried to joke with me in French...unfortunately, the joke was on me because her language skills were clearly much more advanced than mine, haha. Overall, it was a pleasant exchange and I appreciated her friendliness towards me, an outsider.
Following customs, Jen and I quickly found the Baggage Claim. Having located our luggage, we walked toward the door to leave and were stopped by an airport employee who requested that we hand over our airline baggage tickets to ensure that we had picked up our belongings and not someone else's. Initially, this simple act caught me off-guard. Having previously traveled internationally, I have never been asked to verify that I was walking away from the Baggage Claim area with the appropriate luggage. We handed over the tickets, had our bags checked, and thanked the employee for doing her due diligence! Upon leaving the airport, Jen and I walked into a sea of "Tap Tap" (Taxi) drivers. Searching through the crowd, we quickly found Majors Robert and Rae Doliber of the Salvation Army who embraced us with open arms; at this point, Jen and I were both so grateful for such a warm welcome, as our fears about navigating the roads and/or finding our hotel in a foreign country immediately subsided. It was truly like meeting family!
Leaving the airport, we hopped into the Doliber's black pick-up truck and were off to our first temporary housing location, the Visa Lodge in Port-au-Prince. As we checked-in to the hotel, I was stunned by how beautiful the property was. Well-manicured laws, lush greenery, colorful paintings, and an enticing pool greeted us. We quickly placed our belongings in room "Quarante-Deux" (No. 42) and met the Majors up by the pool for dinner. The four of us proceeded to have a lovely meal filled with great conversation! (In case anyone was wondering, the Visa Lodge makes an excellent Chicken Shish-kabob ;)). Following dinner, Jen and I returned to our room for the evening. There were a couple of firsts that night.... (1) I took my first cold shower- it was refreshing! (2) I brushed my teeth using distilled H2O; (3) We spotted a little lizard crawling on our ceiling, and at that moment realized that we were truly visiting a tropical destination.
In the morning, we awoke to the sound of roosters! Yup, roosters! It was incredible! ...and a much preferred sound to that of a cellphone alarm, haha. Even more amazing was having the ability to walk outside in the sun without a jacket during the month of December! Jen and I throughly enjoyed this little treat, as we chatted over a light breakfast of pancakes near the poolside restaurant. (We stuck to pancakes, but it would have been acceptable to order spaghetti served with ketch-up, as that is a common breakfast food over here! ... My husband (an avid spaghetti eater) would be so pleased, haha; although I am not sure how he would feel about the ketchup!)
Having finished breakfast, we were picked up by Majors Robert and Rae Doliber for a day of sight-seeing and adventure. Through the course of the day we explored the different neighborhoods and cities of Haiti and learned of the "caste-like" system that presently existed. It was interesting to hear that the "Elite Haitians" consist of individuals who speak a minimum of 2-3 languages fluently, in addition to having financial resources. Moreover, in touring the different areas of Port-au-Prince it was fascinating to walk into a grocery store that clearly catered to NGO's; in reality, this single store was much nicer than anything I have seen state-side and included an extensive selection of foods from around the globe (...including, my grandmother's favorite Blue Bunny ice cream). Aside from visiting the neighborhoods, we also went to several of the sites most heavily impacted by the earthquake almost 5 years ago. It was an eye-opening experience to witness the different phases of temporary housing and to hear how much the landscape of the capital had changed as a result.
Following our tour of Port-au-Prince, we traveled into the mountains to several different look-out points with stunning views of the country; it was interesting to appreciate another perspective of Haiti and it certainly allowed us the opportunity to get our bearings as to the places in the city that we had just visited! As lunch time drew near, we stopped on the mountain about 5 miles outside of Petionville to check-out the Mountain Maid brand, which was created by a Baptist Mission to encourage economic growth and to stimulate a sustainable income for individuals living in that region. The Moutain Maid area was a charming place to visit, as there were several things that immediately caught our attention, including: a delightful little bakery (which supposedly has the BEST vanilla extract), a well-organized museum displaying years of Haitian history, a child-friendly zoo, and an enjoyable lunch spot that offers gorgeous views of the farming countryside on the mountain. It was such a lovely place to visit and we are so grateful that the Doliber's incorporated it into our tour!
Next up on our Saturday agenda was to attend a Haitian wedding of a couple whom the Doliber's knew from the Salvation Army. As a newlywed myself, it was fun to participate in something so special. In terms of similarities and differences to an American wedding, the bride does wear white; however, I do not think that I have ever seen a more inclusive bridal party! There were 7 boys and girls, and 6 men and women within the party itself! Moreover, as each group entered the church, they came in performing a melodic dance in pairs, moving down the aisle. It was very cute and extremely well-coordinated. Aside from the bride's dress being white, another similarity to an American wedding we noticed was the incorporation of an instrumental version of the song "All of Me" by Sam Smith, which was performed by a trumpeter. Not only was it a wonderful performance, but it also nicely summarized the wedding experience. One final thing I would like to note, which both Jen and I learned is that Haitian weddings typically never start on time. In fact, this one was scheduled to begin at about ~1PM and did not start until a little after 2:30PM (...My kind of people as my husband would say, considering I am always late). Outside of that, while in the church waiting for wedding to begin, I had the opportunity to have a rather enlightening conversation with Major Bob Doliber, where I learned that the Salvation Army itself was a church. Growing up, I always knew the Salvation Army was a religiously-affiliated organization known for not only their acts of service and charity, but also the thrift stores commonly found in the U.S. In speaking with Major Doliber, it was fascinating to learn about the origin and organization of the Salvation Army as a church! It was also of interest to hear about how the Salvation Army was known for different things in various countries. For example, thrift stores in the U.S. and schools in Haiti! Moreover, it was awesome to hear that this upcoming year the Salvation Army will be celebrating their 150th year anniversary at their headquarters in London, England. Pretty neat, huh?!?
Alright, well that is it for tonight. We are turning in, as we have an early start at tomorrow! I look forward to checking-in with you tomorrow! I am sure we will have many more things to share!
Best,
M
Jen and I arrived in the country (on a plane packed with several other American and Haitian travelers) on Friday, December 26, 2014. Considering it was the day after the Christmas holiday, we had a relatively easy time leaving O'Hare and heading southeast to Fort Lauderdale. Once in Florida, we grabbed a quick bite to eat at Villa Italia and patiently began waiting for our flight to Port-au-Prince, Haiti. In just a short while, we were boarded with our seat-belts fastened and waited for wheels up!
In just over ~2 hours, we arrived at our final destination! Upon landing in Port-au-Prince, we were quickly swept into the customs line. It was an interesting mixture of people entering the country; you could tell there were several first-time international travelers among us. Thankfully, customs was a breeze for both Jen and myself. I walked up to the podium and was asked, "Is this your first time visiting Haiti?" I responded, "Oui." To that the customs agent asked me if I spoke Creole, I admitted that I did not, but that I did speak a little bit of French. I feel as though she was encouraged by that, and tried to joke with me in French...unfortunately, the joke was on me because her language skills were clearly much more advanced than mine, haha. Overall, it was a pleasant exchange and I appreciated her friendliness towards me, an outsider.
Following customs, Jen and I quickly found the Baggage Claim. Having located our luggage, we walked toward the door to leave and were stopped by an airport employee who requested that we hand over our airline baggage tickets to ensure that we had picked up our belongings and not someone else's. Initially, this simple act caught me off-guard. Having previously traveled internationally, I have never been asked to verify that I was walking away from the Baggage Claim area with the appropriate luggage. We handed over the tickets, had our bags checked, and thanked the employee for doing her due diligence! Upon leaving the airport, Jen and I walked into a sea of "Tap Tap" (Taxi) drivers. Searching through the crowd, we quickly found Majors Robert and Rae Doliber of the Salvation Army who embraced us with open arms; at this point, Jen and I were both so grateful for such a warm welcome, as our fears about navigating the roads and/or finding our hotel in a foreign country immediately subsided. It was truly like meeting family!
Leaving the airport, we hopped into the Doliber's black pick-up truck and were off to our first temporary housing location, the Visa Lodge in Port-au-Prince. As we checked-in to the hotel, I was stunned by how beautiful the property was. Well-manicured laws, lush greenery, colorful paintings, and an enticing pool greeted us. We quickly placed our belongings in room "Quarante-Deux" (No. 42) and met the Majors up by the pool for dinner. The four of us proceeded to have a lovely meal filled with great conversation! (In case anyone was wondering, the Visa Lodge makes an excellent Chicken Shish-kabob ;)). Following dinner, Jen and I returned to our room for the evening. There were a couple of firsts that night.... (1) I took my first cold shower- it was refreshing! (2) I brushed my teeth using distilled H2O; (3) We spotted a little lizard crawling on our ceiling, and at that moment realized that we were truly visiting a tropical destination.
In the morning, we awoke to the sound of roosters! Yup, roosters! It was incredible! ...and a much preferred sound to that of a cellphone alarm, haha. Even more amazing was having the ability to walk outside in the sun without a jacket during the month of December! Jen and I throughly enjoyed this little treat, as we chatted over a light breakfast of pancakes near the poolside restaurant. (We stuck to pancakes, but it would have been acceptable to order spaghetti served with ketch-up, as that is a common breakfast food over here! ... My husband (an avid spaghetti eater) would be so pleased, haha; although I am not sure how he would feel about the ketchup!)
Having finished breakfast, we were picked up by Majors Robert and Rae Doliber for a day of sight-seeing and adventure. Through the course of the day we explored the different neighborhoods and cities of Haiti and learned of the "caste-like" system that presently existed. It was interesting to hear that the "Elite Haitians" consist of individuals who speak a minimum of 2-3 languages fluently, in addition to having financial resources. Moreover, in touring the different areas of Port-au-Prince it was fascinating to walk into a grocery store that clearly catered to NGO's; in reality, this single store was much nicer than anything I have seen state-side and included an extensive selection of foods from around the globe (...including, my grandmother's favorite Blue Bunny ice cream). Aside from visiting the neighborhoods, we also went to several of the sites most heavily impacted by the earthquake almost 5 years ago. It was an eye-opening experience to witness the different phases of temporary housing and to hear how much the landscape of the capital had changed as a result.
Following our tour of Port-au-Prince, we traveled into the mountains to several different look-out points with stunning views of the country; it was interesting to appreciate another perspective of Haiti and it certainly allowed us the opportunity to get our bearings as to the places in the city that we had just visited! As lunch time drew near, we stopped on the mountain about 5 miles outside of Petionville to check-out the Mountain Maid brand, which was created by a Baptist Mission to encourage economic growth and to stimulate a sustainable income for individuals living in that region. The Moutain Maid area was a charming place to visit, as there were several things that immediately caught our attention, including: a delightful little bakery (which supposedly has the BEST vanilla extract), a well-organized museum displaying years of Haitian history, a child-friendly zoo, and an enjoyable lunch spot that offers gorgeous views of the farming countryside on the mountain. It was such a lovely place to visit and we are so grateful that the Doliber's incorporated it into our tour!
Next up on our Saturday agenda was to attend a Haitian wedding of a couple whom the Doliber's knew from the Salvation Army. As a newlywed myself, it was fun to participate in something so special. In terms of similarities and differences to an American wedding, the bride does wear white; however, I do not think that I have ever seen a more inclusive bridal party! There were 7 boys and girls, and 6 men and women within the party itself! Moreover, as each group entered the church, they came in performing a melodic dance in pairs, moving down the aisle. It was very cute and extremely well-coordinated. Aside from the bride's dress being white, another similarity to an American wedding we noticed was the incorporation of an instrumental version of the song "All of Me" by Sam Smith, which was performed by a trumpeter. Not only was it a wonderful performance, but it also nicely summarized the wedding experience. One final thing I would like to note, which both Jen and I learned is that Haitian weddings typically never start on time. In fact, this one was scheduled to begin at about ~1PM and did not start until a little after 2:30PM (...My kind of people as my husband would say, considering I am always late). Outside of that, while in the church waiting for wedding to begin, I had the opportunity to have a rather enlightening conversation with Major Bob Doliber, where I learned that the Salvation Army itself was a church. Growing up, I always knew the Salvation Army was a religiously-affiliated organization known for not only their acts of service and charity, but also the thrift stores commonly found in the U.S. In speaking with Major Doliber, it was fascinating to learn about the origin and organization of the Salvation Army as a church! It was also of interest to hear about how the Salvation Army was known for different things in various countries. For example, thrift stores in the U.S. and schools in Haiti! Moreover, it was awesome to hear that this upcoming year the Salvation Army will be celebrating their 150th year anniversary at their headquarters in London, England. Pretty neat, huh?!?
Alright, well that is it for tonight. We are turning in, as we have an early start at tomorrow! I look forward to checking-in with you tomorrow! I am sure we will have many more things to share!
Best,
M
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